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On
our passage from Funafuti to Kosrae in the Federated States of Micronesia (FSM)
we crossed the equator into the northern hemisphere for the first time since
2004. Apart from the odd squall it was a pleasant if somewhat slow passage.
We witnessed tuna in a feeding frenzy – unfortunately not on the end of our
hook and friendly pods of dolphins frolicking in the pressure wave under our
bow. The vagaries of the various equatorial currents were intriguing,
especially when we found the core of the current was actually a good deal
cooler than its edges.. It was also fascinating to note the way that island
groups and even quite deep ocean ridges modified the currents in huge eddies. |
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After
the extremely low lying atolls of Tuvalu, Kosrae was a marked contrast. The
pass through its fringing reef into Lelu Harbour was well marked. We anchored
in the most usual spot to the southeast of the big church, though there is a
more sheltered and less tide-swept anchorage on the south side of the
harbour. The officials who cleared us ashore in the village were efficient,
but friendly and polite. Technically boats entering FSM must have a cruising
permit prior to enter. We had applied some months before by fax and kept our
receipt, having heard nothing in response. This proved adequate to satisfy
the officers. |
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Kosrae
is not a big place. Estimates of the population varied between 6000 and 8000,
though the former seems more likely as many younger people have been leaving
for the USA, with which FSM has had close ties since WWII. At the same time
China has been trying to establish links as well, building the island’s new
high school. There seems to be a
competition to win the allegiance of the island nations of the Pacific
between China and Taiwan. The latter was heavily represented in Funafuti. We
were most impressed by the Kosraen people’s dedication to paddling. During
our stay they practiced morning and evening to prepare for a big Inter-Island
competition later in the year. |
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Given
Kosrae’s small size, we soon had out our bikes to explore the roads on the
flat coastal plain. However, it was necessary to go ‘armed’ with sticks and
stones to ward off the local dogs, which seemed intent on attacking anything
on two wheels. Despite this menace we managed to cover most of the islands
roads, including that to the ‘International Airport’ on the west side. |
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We
had heard from our new friends Mark and Maria, that they ran a recycling
operation in a shed near the airport. We were fascinated to see the size of
this, given the relatively tiny population. From the huge collection of
aluminium cans it seemed that the people of Kosrae must put away two or three
cans a day each. But at least they clean them and turn them in for recycling.
The cans are then compressed for shipment for reprocessing in Taiwan. It was
a most impressive operation. |
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Food
shopping on Kosrae was pretty limited, though perhaps better than Funafuti. However,
we realised quickly that we were making the transition from
British/Australian/New Zealand brands and types of food to American.
Unfortunately this meant Budweiser beer, but there were compensations in Chef
Boyardee ravioli and a few other delights. What was really surprising was the
astonishing Ace hardware store, run by the Sigrah family. This was a huge
store stocking a wider range of items than most hardware stores in the USA.
We toured its shelves open-mouthed and occasionally drooling. Tom had to be
dragged away. In addition to running this remarkable Aladdin’s Cave, the
family are also extremely hospitable and helpful to visiting cruisers. We
were very grateful for their help and friendship. |
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We
made other friends here as well. Mark and Maria with little son Oceano, run
the Pacific Tree Lodge Dive Resort, with its associated restaurant. Fellow
cruiser Roger Wilson on ‘Hanoah’ was waiting for the return of his wife Judy,
then in the USA. ‘Hanoah’ was beautifully kept and several long conversation
with Roger revealed him as a kindred cruising spirit. Our
biking excursions also took us to the south side of the island to visit the
much touted, but actually rather meagre waterfall. The only remarkable sight
being that of freshwater crayfish swimming about in the pool below the fall. |
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Our
daily excursions to the Sigrah family’s dinghy landing gave us access to Lelu
village and the larger capital village of Tofol beyond. Though the island is
generally high, we did note that much if not most of the housing was on the
low coastal plain and as such was probably just as vulnerable to rising sea
levels as Tuvalu. Even the high spring tides during our stay threatened to
flood some of the houses in the village. We had explored the interesting
ruins north of the Lelu village as a fore-taste of those at Nan Madol on Pohnpei.
As usual, however, Vicky was determined to find a challenge to prevent
incipient vegitation and so it was decided that we would make the ascent of
Mount Finkol, at 2,064’ the highest point on the island. Since the route is
by no means obvious, Salik agreed to guide us and Maria joined in the party. |
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Kosrae
is less prone to rain than Pohnpei, but not much, so we were lucky to hit on
a dry day, with only some showers the day before. Nevertheless, particularly
the lower portions of the track were pretty squelchy and there were several
streams to cross and re-cross on the way to higher drier ground. |
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The
down-side of drier footing was the radically increased angle of the slopes.
Steady climbing for a couple of hours got us to the summit, from which even Tom
had to admit that the view was pretty spectacular, exposing virtually the
whole coast of the island as well as the lush green lower hill tops. Of
course there was the small matter of getting down again, which we managed
mostly on foot, but occasionally with bottom-slide assist, even on the roped
sections of the slope. Close inspection of the left leg of Tom’s shorts in
the photo below will reveal some of the cost of the ascent. It was a relief
to reach the stream at the bottom in which sat a canoe carved out by Salik’s
father. By the time we got back to Maria’s car, 8 hours after we started, we
all felt we’d had a little exercise. Looking back up at the steep slopes Mt.
Finkol the next day made us realise why we felt so tired. |
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Only a couple of days before we left, Mark and
Maria launched off the yacht on which Mark had been working for some months.
He had picked up the abandoned and partially derelict boat for a song and set
about refitting and refurbishing her for local sailing. Looking very smart,
she was lowered into the water by a local crane. Mark and Maria’s Thursday
evening sunset cruise was made all the more pleasant by the sight of the
newly refurbished yacht bobbing on its mooring in the harbour. |
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