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Though
slightly later than we planned, a convenient weather window opened only four
days after Tom's return from New York and we sailed off at dawn from Auckland
on 22 June. After nearly three years spent mostly in New Zealand, we were
both sad to leave, but happy to be back in long term cruising mode with a
year and a half cruising plan ahead of us. The
passage itself was a very gentle escape from winter and into the tropics,
with mostly reaching and fairly light winds. Even so we managed to reach Suva
in slightly less than nine days. |
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Despite
its reputation as a tedious place to clear in, we had decided on Suva so that
we could conveniently head to Kadavu Island just to the south. As it turned
out we were fortunate, as there were two other boats waiting for clearance,
one of which had already waited two days, while we cleared the morning of our
arrival. Though somewhat faded in its colonial splendour, the Royal Suva
Yacht Club was welcoming and the staff helpful. We restocked with essential
liquids, water, diesel and beer and spent a week exploring the city,
particularly the huge market, where we found not only fruit, veg and flowers
but also the yagona (used to make kava) we would need to carry out sevusevu
with the chiefs of the villages we would visit. Our time in Suva also gave
Tom the chance for an emergency visit to the dentist – about which more
later! |
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With
Noumea in New Caledonia, Suva is the most important city in the tropical
South Pacific. There are a few remnants of the colonial past in its
government buildings, but much of its centre is fairly modern, as is the very
beautiful campus of the University of the South Pacific further out from the
centre. As
you might expect, much of the city away from the centre is rather more
ramshackle, but bustling with activity. Despite the fact that there is
currently a quasi-military 'interim' government, there was little or no
evidence of this on the streets of Suva. It was very difficult for us as
outsiders to gauge general attitudes to the current regime, but both locals
we spoke to and cruisers who knew Fiji well, seemed to feel that there was
broad support for the regime's avowed principles and the stability which it
had brought, even if there was a desire to see proper democracy restored. |
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After
the crowds, bustle and bureaucracy of Suva we were pleased to escape to
Kadavu (pronounced Kandavu), where we anchored at Kavala with only one other
yacht. The anchorage is tucked in the SW corner of the bay near the concrete
wharf which serves the store. Approaching the anchorage we very nearly had
our first Fiji reef experience, as the head of the bay is protected by a
coral reef extending more then halfway across. Fortunately we spotted the
shoals in time and edged our way round into deep water. From
the eastern end of Kadavu extends Great Astrolabe Reef, which surrounds an
area dotted with small islands and smaller reefs. From Kavala we motored
outside the main reef to a pass toward the northern end to arrive at the
island of Dravuni. With its white sand beach, lush vegetation and tidy
village the island has the look of 'tropical paradise'. As a result, it is no
surprise that it is a regular stop for cruise ships and smaller charter
vessels. Fortunately, our visit was a peaceful one, which gave us a chance to
chat to the locals and to hike to the island's high point for a panorama of
the reef. |
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It
is important in Fiji and throughout most of the Melanesian and Micronesian
islands to obtain the permission of the landowner or responsible chief to
visit any island, beach or reef, even if it is uninhabited. Having obtained
this permission from the chief at Dravuni, we spent a day and night at the
little island of Namara, with its pretty beach and good snorkelling. From
there, the next day we wove our way through the channels between the south
coast of Kadavu and its fringing reef. In Fiji, good light is an essential
for moving along such channels as many of the charted markers have long-since
disappeared, so a sharp watch must be kept for the darker water of the
channel, the lighter water of the reef and also for the brown areas which
often mark isolated 'bommies'. |
Though
he was unwell at the time, Chief Monassa and his wife Millie of Kadavu
village were very welcoming as were the many children of the village. Despite
the fact that there are two quite large villages in the valley, there is no
road connecting them to the main centre on the island where there is a
hospital and the administration. As a result it is a long hike or boat ride
to reach medical help. Even for a chief like Monassa, the trip and the
considerable expense of medical care are a real disincentive to seeking help.
We gave Monassa some non-prescription medication and hoped it would relieve
his persistent diarrhoea. Monassa and Millie had lived for years in Suva
while their children were educated, but preferred to move back to their
village thereafter. Monassa said that the government was encouraging people
to move back to their villages from the cities and towns. The
infrastructure of the village seemed to have decayed in recent years. There
were signs that there had once been centrally supplied electricity, which was
no longer working. Water, though piped to standpipes appeared to come
directly from the rather muddy river. Housing in the village varied from more
modern breeze-block construction to traditional thatched huts with earth
floors. |
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We
were fortunate to visit Kadavu village at a time of northerly winds, as the
south coast of the island can be quite exposed in the southerlies which
predominate. When these returned we headed back to the sheltered anchorage at
Kavala. From here we stretched our legs by hiking along the track which was
being developed as a road connecting the villages on Kavala Bay to those in
the centre of the island. As we passed it, the bulldozer (above right) very
nearly slid sideways into a ravine and had to be rescued by another. There
were some formidable obstacles to developing the road, as the washed out area
below shows. During dry season the road is hard packed earth, but in the wet,
much of it must be a sea of mud! On the way we also passed an entrepreneurial
and skilled chain-sawyer, who was turning logs felled by the road gang into
planks to be sent for sale in Suva. |
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In
retrospect, had we known that we would spend two months in Fiji, we would
have stayed longer in Kadavu and visited more of its traditional villages as
well as further exploring Great Astrolabe Reef. However, at the time we
wanted to move on and so headed NW on an overnight passage to enter Nadi
(pronounced Nandi) Water in the early morning. Thankfully we had one of our
few fishing successes in Fiji on this passage with the catch of nice
yellow-fin tuna. Once through Navula Passage we headed for the sybaritic
delights of Musket Cove on Malololailai Island. This resort is one of the relatively
few which actively welcomes cruisers. There is a small marina, as well as
numerous moorings available. Each September the Resort also runs the well
known Musket Cove regatta. |
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It
is very easy for cruisers to become firmly hooked on the pleasures of Musket
Cove and some stay there for weeks or even months. We were determined to
limit our stay, but we did find time to catch up with several cruiser friends
and acquaintances as well as using access to TV to watch the All Blacks
continue their unbeaten run in the Tri-Nations. |
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It
was fortunate that we were on a mooring at Musket Cove, as the anchoring is
deep and our trusty windlass had chosen this time to work to rule – or not at
all. Dismantling it revealed that the commutator on the motor was worn. Tom
made an attempt at repair, but it was clear that more expert attention would
be needed, which meant that it was a return to the arms-back-shoulders
windlass. Meanwhile,
back in Suva it had become obvious that one of Tom's capped teeth had also
decided that enough was enough, not only shedding its crown but breaking up
as well. Fortunately, as a result of many recommendations, we found Dr. I. A.
Sahu Kahn, who was trained in Australia and uses a technician in Sydney to
provide his fabricated crowns and bridges. He is an excellent dentist, but
because he is in Suva and we wished to keep cruising it meant two lengthy journeys
back for Tom. First by bus from Lautoka and then by ferry from Savusavu, in
order to keep appointments to fit a bridge to make good Tom's gap-toothed
smile. |
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Saweini Bay, about 10 kms west of Lautoka is a very convenient and well sheltered anchorage from which it is possible to pick up a bus to get into town. While Tom trekked to Suva Vicky stayed with the boat in the initially quiet anchorage – until the New Zealand ICA (Island Cruising Assoc.) rally fleet invaded. |
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Waya Island is
at the southern end of the Yasawa Group, which is one of the most popular
areas with cruisers in Fiji. This is partly because the weather is generally
dry and a little cooler than some other parts of the country. There are lots
of beaches and quite a number of good anchorages. However, the area requires
careful and cautious pilotage as no absolute reliance can be placed on GPS or
charted information. Yalobi Village is on the southern side of Waya Island.
The villagers are used to visitors, and are welcoming to cruisers, following
the lead of their chief, Tom. During our stay there, children from all the local
villages had their sports competitions at netball and rugby, while the men
held trials to choose a team to represent the island in regional
competitions. Fijian men are religiously devoted to rugby and Fiji's women
are ranked fifth in the world at netball. |
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A brief visit to Navadra Island in the Mamanuca Group
gave us another opportunity for snorkelling and beach combing – just before
the rally caught up with us once more. |
On our trip up the west coast of Waya Island we
had thought we might anchor at Liku Liku, but on seeing an anchored yacht
rolling quite heavily, we decided against it. This decision was reinforced
when we caught sight of a wrecked yacht on the beach. We later found out that
it was a boat we knew, an early 'Moonduster', originally owned by Dennis
Doyle, the very well known and respected Irish offshore racing skipper. At
the time it was lost, the boat was owned by an American who had decided to
cruise in Fiji during the early part of cyclone season in December 2009.
Unfortunately, he was caught out on a lee shore by the first cyclone of the
season and lost the boat when the anchor chain parted. It was a sad end for
another fine S&S yacht and warning that apparently benign tropical waters
have their dangers. |
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After a brief stop at Naulawaki Bay at the northern
end of Waya, we continued on to Somosomo at the northern end of Naviti. This
a beautiful and sheltered anchorage with a long white sand beach on the
western side of a narrow peninsula. A 20 minute walk takes you to the
eastern, windward side, where Clara and Sanita live. They are both well into
their 70's and manage for cash by selling coconuts and copra in the market in
Lautoka. It is clearly a hard existence. Most of their food comes from their
own gardens. Clara is clearly well educated and speaks excellent Engish.
Their children were also well educated, two now living in Australia and two
in Suva, all with good jobs. While at Somosomo we managed to buy some fruit and
a lobster from a local panga, while Tom carried out repairs to the
long-suffering Avon dinghy. Though we had had some refurbishment done in
Auckland, we had been trying for a year to acquire a new floor and keel tube
– with no success. The dinghy has been a work horse for 13 years now and it
seems likely that we will have to replace it, perhaps when we reach Canada.
We would like another Avon, if only because it is the only inflatable with
decent rowlocks – quite apart from the quality of the hypalon.. The dinghy's
tubes are still in good shape, but the inflatable floor, which is not hypalon
and made by Zodiac, is UV damaged and leaking at seams which can't be
repaired. We had heard from those moving south through the
Yasawas that it tended to be very breezy in the northern anchorages. So it
proved when we moved up to Land Harbour at the SW corner of Yasawa Island.
The anchorage is very well protected from the prevailing winds, which appear
to be accelerated by passing between the two main islands of Fiji. In
addition the higher land east of the anchorage sends little bullets of williwaws
across the harbour. The holding, fortunately is excellent, but with the
strong winds and the relatively large size of the anchorage there was little
chance to get ashore. |
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Bligh Water in the midst of the Fijian Islands is
the one area where, with reasonable care, it is possible to sail safely at
night. As it is an up-wind trip we had hoped for fairly moderate breezes and
foolishly believed the GRIB file when it predicted them. In the event, we
beat through the night into 20-25 knots, the wind only dying as we reached
the Yadua Pass in the morning. Sadly we were unable to stop at Yadua. Foreign
vessels had been banned from visiting, as crew from one had violated the
rules of this area of scientific interest by stealing rare iguana eggs. It is
infuriating when fools spoil the cruising experience of the many in order to
indulge themselves by breaking the rules of a country in which they are
guests. Most cruisers are respectful of their host country's rules, even when
these are trying or time-consuming, but a few treat rules with contempt and
then are outraged when they are brought to book. After our bouncy passage it was a pleasure to
anchor in the peaceful narrow inlet at Koroinasolo. The village there is
quite isolated and traditional. However, the chief and his family made us
very welcome, though with the exception of the daughter, Mary, they had very
little English. Vicky managed to find a spare pair of reading glasses for the
chief, which we understood to be a considerable status symbol! |
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Despite Tom's efforts, the windlass motor had more
or less ceased to function since leaving Musket Cove. Fortunately we have kept
on board all the elements of our old manual system, which we re-fitted. Most
important of these is probably the chain pawl which sits over our grooved
anchor roller. This grips the chain after each pull, so that it is not
necessary to hold it while getting a new grip for the next pull. The other
important element is our trip line. This, in combination with a snatch block
on the pulpit, allows us to break out and lift the anchor and much of the
chain using a self-tailing mast winch. The anchor then hangs conveniently
outboard for cleaning. When the windlass first started its go-slow, Tom
wondered if, seven years on, he would still be able to do the anchor work
without mechanical assistance, but it all worked fine – especially after a
few days of muscle-building. |
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While in Fiji we had got in touch by email with
our friends Joseph and Marci on Horizon, knowing that they had set off in
March from San Diego to cross the Pacific. We wondered how they were getting
on. They replied from American Samoa – a mere cruiser's hop away - so we
suggested that they might consider a small diversion to Savusavu and Fiji on
their way to Vanuatu. They agreed and so we were on a mission to get to
Savusavu, both to see them and to try to get the windlass repaired. A long day from Bua Bay on the west coast of Vanua
Levu, along the south coast and through Nausonisoni Pass got us to Savusavu
just after dark. We motored our way gently among all the moorings, found one
free and tied up in cruiser heaven. |
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We had expected that fellow RCC member, David
Mitchell on 'Shandon' would be long-gone, off to the Lau group to deliver
medical supplies. However, problems with his new vane-steering system had held
him at Savusavu – fortunately they were problems we were able to help with,
delving into 'Sunstone's' lockers for bits that 'might come in handy some
time'! |
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Savusavu on the south coast of Vanua Levu has become
a real cruiser cross-roads, partly because of its convenient position as a
port of entry in Fiji for those arriving from north, east and south. However,
it is also popular because of its well protected moorings and its relatively
good supplies and services. It is a compact town, where everything is easily
accessible and it has good connections to Suva for those joining or leaving
or requiring delivery of parts. Each winter season a number of cruisers base
themselves at Savusavu and a few even leave their boats on dedicated
'hurricane' moorings for the cyclone season. However, most boats left in Fiji
during that season go to Vuda Point marina near Lautoka, where boats are
lowered into tyre-lined pits to ensure that they are not blown away. |
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Joseph and Marci
on 'Horizon' had a safe and quick passage from American Samoa – a place which
they had been delighted to escape. It was great to see them again after seven
years, both to catch up on each others experiences and to exchange
information about future cruising. We re-introduced Joseph to proper bitter
beer and admired 'Horizon's' pristine
bright work. Below: 'Horizon' and 'Sunstone' meet again! |
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Once Marci and Joseph had recovered from their
passage a window of lighter easterlies opened to allow us to make a cruise in
company to the east along the south coast of Vanua Levu. We introduced Marci
to the gentle pass-time of reef 'fossicking' at low water, exploring the
remarkable variety of marine life which is exposed on a coral reef when the
tide goes out – in this case including baby moray eels, brilliant blue
starfish and giant clams embedded in the coral. |
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At Viani Bay on
the SE corner of Vanua Levu, we picked up Jack Fisher's mooring buoys and met
the man himself. Jack is a Fijian cruising institution, having helped countless
cruisers explore Rainbow Reef and learn more about his corner of Fiji. He is
a wonderful character and a stalwart of the life of his village. In his
capable hands we had a great time snorkelling among the colourful coral heads
of Rainbow Reef and then took a hike with him through the local bush, during
which Jack kept us both entertained with his stories and educated by his
knowledge of the local plants. Our visit to Viani Bay was one of the
highlights of our Fijian cruise. |
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To round off our
time with Joseph and Marci we explored the channels through the dense
mangrove swamp at Naqaiqai, before heading back to Savusavu so that 'Horizon'
could begin making her way west toward the Yasawas and then Vanuatu, while we
prepared for our departure northwards to Ile Wallis. By chance our return to Savusavu coincided with
Alvah and Diana Simon's arrival on 'Roger Henry'. Their cruising exploits are
well known, quite apart from Alvah's remarkable winter spent iced-in in the
Arctic. Meeting with them gave us a chance to get more information about
their recent cruise in Japan and on through the Aleutians, both of which are
our major goals for the coming year. |
This time round, we thoroughly enjoyed our cruise through
Fiji and have every intention of returning in future. Next time, however, we
plan to spend more time in the remoter parts of the country, Kadavu, the Lau
Group and the northern coast of Vanua Levu. Whereas in 1999 we felt that many
Fijians were somewhat dour and much less open than their ni-Vanuatu cousins,
this time we found indigenous Fijians and Indo Fijians to be both welcoming
and helpful. This was particularly so in the remoter villages. |
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